BBC Gardeners World Magazine

Seven ways to recycle your Christmas tree

2023-12-15T13:38:39Z

When the celebrations are over and decorations have been packed away, it’s time to think about how to reuse your cut Christmas tree, instead of sending it to landfill. From shredding it to make mulch to using it as a frame for climbing plants, there are many ways to put the wood and needles to good use.

Discover six ways to recycle your Christmas tree, below. Plus, find out what to do with your living, containerised (pot-grown) Christmas tree.

Looking for inspiration for fabulously festive plants for your home or to gift loved ones? We share our favourite Christmas plants.

Create woodchip mulch

Convert your old Christmas tree into useful woodchip mulch by putting it through a shredder. Stack the chips at the back of a border for a few months to rot down before using them to mulch around trees and shrubs. If you don’t own a shredder, you can rent one, ask a neighbour, or contact your local gardening club. Find out which areas to mulch in your garden.

Make mulch from the needles

Keep the Christmas tree on the patio until the needles fall off, then collect the needles to use as a mulch for acid-loving plants such as blueberries. Discover acid-loving plants in our Plant Finder.

Use it as a frame for climbers

Plant the bare tree in a garden border, then grow climbers such as sweet peas over it. You can also use twiggy branches as plant supports – keep them somewhere dry and use them in the summer. Take inspiration from these 10 scented climbers.

Create a wildlife shelter

Trim twigs to short lengths, tie them in a bundle, then hang in a bush for bugs to hide in. Or, chop the trunk into pieces and stack to create a mini refuge for wildlife. Learn three ways to build a deadwood habitat.

Use as insulation for tender plants

Chop large branches from the tree, and lay them over plants on the soil surface to protect them from frost. These 10 common garden plants need winter protection.

Give it to your local council, garden centre or nature reserve

Give the tree to your local council’s green waste scheme. Most councils collect festive conifers in the new year and chip them to make municipal compost or mulch. You can also contact your local garden centre, or donate your tree to a coastal nature reserve, where it may be used to stabilise sand dunes.

Make a bug hotel

Use the branches of your Christmas tree to create a bug hotel, perfect to help creatures through the colder months.

More ways to recycle Christmas

Natural decorations

Hang out holly and other berried greenery for birds to eat
Stuff foliage inside a large flower pot, turned on its side for bees and other insects to nest in
Chop up and compost

Peelings and leftovers

Mix raw veg and fruit remains with a little paper and add to the compost heap or bin
Use leftover fat or oil mixed with unsalted nuts and dried fruit to make a high-energy bird food

Get more advice on composting Christmas in our video guide.

Is yours a living, pot-grown tree?

Most Christmas trees sold in pots like to be kept cool. Providing you’ve kept your tree in a cool indoor position for a couple of weeks at most, it should survive. You could plant it out in the garden after Christmas, or repot it into a larger pot until next year.

10 ways to get ahead in autumn

2023-12-16T06:38:10Z

Shortening days and falling temperatures in autumn mean its time to swing into action and get your garden into shape, before the winter sets in.

Autumn is the perfect season to get ahead to ensure you’ll have less to do in spring.

Anything that can be done ahead of the hectic spring period is a bonus. When everything explodes into growth and the days are never long enough, you’ll be pleased to have stolen a march on spring.

Here are 10 jobs you can do in autumn to get a head start.

Lay a new lawn

Gardener laying turf

Lay a new lawn using turf, or replace a patch by weeding and reseeding it. If you have a large area to cover, sow a new lawn. The damp, warm conditions in autumn mean the seeds will germinate quickly, with only minimal watering needed.

Repair your lawn

Gardener scarifying a lawn

Applying an autumn lawn fertiliser will encourage a stronger, healthier lawn that will need less looking after. Rake out the dead grass or ‘thatch’ first, to ensure feed gets through to the roots. Weed and reseed any patches that need it.

Plant up a border or makeover an existing one

Perennial plant with exposed rootball

Autumn is a good time to plant or move hardy plants like trees, shrubs, roses and perennials. Warm soil encourages speedy root growth and autumn rain should keep them well watered. Your plants will become established over winter and will romp away in spring.

Divide perennials

Gardener dividing rootball

Divide perennials as they become dormant. It will increase their vigour and will give you plants for free. Find out how to divide perennials.

Plant bare-root plants

Bare-root tree prior to planting

Planting dormant, bare-root roses, trees, shrubs, hedges and perennial plants in autumn and winter is not only economical – the plants will establish quickly too. Discover plants to plant bare root.

Pull up annual weeds

Chickweed before being pulled out

Pull up flowering annual weeds such as chickweed now before they set seed in spring.

Tie in climbers and stake trees

Tree stake supporting a young tree

Inspect trellis and arches to make sure they’re secure. Otherwise, autumn and winter gales could bring the whole lot down. A quick fix now is better than a wholesale repair in spring. Tie in plants securely, stake trees and check and adjust existing ties.

Sow hardy annuals and sweet peas

Pink sweet pea flowers

Sow hardy annuals direct, if you have well-drained soil, or under cover, and you’ll get earlier flowers next year. Find out how to create a bed of hardy annuals. Sow sweet peas in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame – plants will be sturdier and bloom longer than spring-sown ones.

Deep clean the greenhouse

Gardeners cleaning a greenhouse

Cleaning now will beat bugs and diseases, and it will be ready to go next spring. Empty completely, removing shading. Wash glass inside and out, washing staging and removing debris and old pots that tend to be ‘snail hotels’. Dry and store capillary matting. Find out how to clean and tidy a greenhouse.

Clean and sharpen tools

Gardener sharpening secateurs

Maintain tools by cleaning, maintaining, sharpening and oiling tools – they’ll last longer and will be ready for next year. Watch Alan Titchmarsh sharpen garden tools in our No Fuss video guide. Maintain your lawn mower or send it for a service, too.

In conversation – winter

2023-12-15T12:37:47Z

Whether travelling the world with Monty Don, making your garden look great all year with Nick Bailey, growing winter veg with Rekha Mistry, or celebrating Christmas with Joe Lycett, this winter series is full of seasonal treats. You’ll be inspired to get out in the garden, as well as finding plenty of excuses to stay indoors when the weather is less appealing. Listen to new episodes, every Thursday.

Episode six – We love winter, with James Alexander-Sinclair

Do you love winter? Esteemed garden designer James Alexander-Sinclair helps you find the beauty in the season and in your garden at this time of year.

Episode five – How gardening supports our wellbeing with Marchelle Farrell

Spending time in our gardens and green spaces can hugely benefit our wellbeing in winter. Gardener and therapist Marchelle Farrell explains how to use yours to feel better.

Episode four – Nick Bailey on making a garden look great all year round

Plantsman, garden designer and Gardeners’ World presenter Nick Bailey shares his tips for creating a garden that looks good all year round, no matter what size your space.

Episode three – Christmas crafts with Rich Heathcote

Create beautiful, unique and natural decorations this winter with help from Rich Heathcote. Discover how he made the gorgeous wreath on the cover of the December issue of Gardeners’ World Magazine, and the basics of making a sustainable wreath, garlands for tables, quick projects such as rosemary around candles, winter posies, foilage for gift wrapping, dried flowers on Christmas trees.

Episode two – How to grow veg in winter with Rekha Mistry

You can grow veg year round! We catch up with Rekha who is growing her veg this winter for the first time in her new garden up north. She reveals what you can start growing as well as the benefits of getting growing now. She also shares what she will be doing to protect her crops in weather colder than she has previously grown in.

Episode one – Discovering the world’s greatest gardens, with Monty Don

Visiting the world’s most beautiful gardens to make a TV series might seem like a dream job for most of us, and in this episode Monty Don shares the practical realities of life ‘on the road’. Discover why he takes along whole sets of identical clothing, his favourite overseas gardens, and the characters he’s met along the way.

More podcasts:

Listen to this episode and all previous episodes of the BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Podcast on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

Special podcast subscription offer

Try BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine with this special introductory offer: 3 issues for only £5. Find out more

Box tree caterpillar

2023-12-13T14:30:36Z

Box tree caterpillars are a serious threat to box (Buxus) plants – they can completely defoliate them, ruining prized topiary and native box hedges.

Box tree caterpillars are a relatively new pest. Native to east Asia, they’re thought to have hitched a ride on imported plants to Europe, where they were first spotted in 2007. The first moths were found in private gardens in Britain in 2011, initially in the south east, where they are now a major problem. They’re also now spreading across the UK. The caterpillars cause most of their damage between March and October. A box ball can be destroyed within a week if action is not taken.

There have been reports of birds such as blue tits and jackdaws feeding on the caterpillars but it’s not yet known if this will have any serious affect on numbers.

What is box tree caterpillar?

Box tree caterpillars are the larvae of a moth, Cydalima perspectalis, which lays its eggs on the undersides of box leaves. The resulting caterpillars create cobweb-like webbing over their feeding area, and devour the box leaves. After around a month, the caterpillar forms a chrysalis which emerges as a box tree moth, which then mates, perpetuating the cycle. Box tree caterpillars can be a problem from spring to autumn, producing multiple generations. The caterpillars overwinter among box foliage, resuming feeding the following spring.

Box tree caterpillar symptoms

Box tree caterpillar, webbing, eaten leaves, frass and dieback on a box plant. Getty Images

The signs of box tree caterpillar can be confused with box blight. You are likely to become aware of box tree caterpillar when you see the tell-tale webbing, dieback and droppings on your box plants. As the caterpillars conceal themselves deep within the plants, this often becomes apparent when you have trimmed or shaped your plants.

Webbing
Parts of the plant are covered in dense, white webbing, under which the caterpillars feed.

Dieback
Your plant may also have small patches of dieback – the leaves turn pale and papery. This is particularly noticeable on newly trimmed plants. This can look a little similar to box blight, so be sure to check the symptoms for this too.

Caterpillars
You may also see caterpillars, often concealed deep among the foliage or at the base of the plant. The young caterpillars are green/yellow, with black heads, and are around 1cm long. Older caterpillars reach 4cm long, and are also green/yellow, and have black and white stripes on their bodies.

Droppings
You will also see copious amounts of droppings, known as frass – pale yellow flakes.

Pupae
You may also notice the pupae, in a cocoon of white webbing among the foliage.

Eggs
You may see the eggs of the caterpillars on the undersides of the leaves – these are small, pale yellow and flat and overlap each other.

Moths
If you shake the plants, you may also see the moths flying off – they have white wings with a brown border, or completely brown wings, around 4cm across.

Stripped bark
The moths can also strip the bark of box.

Controlling box tree caterpillar

Removing box tree caterpillar by hand. Getty Images

Organic control

Hand removal
You can try to remove the caterpillars by hand if the infestation is small or you only have a few plants – you will need to do this every day once signs of their presence have been spotted, and check deep within the plant. You can also prune out the stems covered in webbing, using secateurs.

Biological control
If the caterpillars are really taking hold, a biological control that contains the micro-organism Bacillus thuringiensis is said to be effective. However this is not licensed in the UK for home use and must be used by professionals only. Treatment needs to be repeated several times across the season, when the temperature is at least 15°C.

Chemical control

Insecticides
Insecticides can be used on box tree caterpillar but they are not thought to be as good as the biological control and will also kill other insects. Multiple applications are needed. Do not spray insecticides near plants that are in flower to avoid harming beneficial pollinators.

Preventing box tree caterpillar

Box caterpillar among foliage. Getty Images

Pheromone traps
Pheromone traps feature a synthetic pheromone that mimics the one produced by the female box tree moth. The male moths are then attracted to the pheromone and become stuck inside the trap, disrupting the breeding cycle. The traps need to be replaced frequently and are unlikely to catch all of the male moths in your garden. However they are a useful indicator of the presence of box tree moth so you can take prompt action.

Be vigilant
Box tree caterpillars can be hard to spot as they conceal themselves well. Therefore check your plants regularly, looking deep inside the plant and around its base.

Alternatives to box

Ilex crenata ‘Dark Green’

If you have lost plants to box tree caterpillar (or box blight) or are unwilling to plant more due to potential problems, there are plenty of alternatives to box.

Some, such as box leafed holly (Ilex crenata) or Lonicera nitida look similar to box and can be grown and clipped in the same way, and yew is a great alternative for hedging and topiary. While other plants are not direct replacements, some have the added advantage of flowers that are attractive to pollinators (such as lavender, Mexican orange blossom and podocarpus), while others have attractive variegated foliage (Euonymus fortunei or Euonymus japonicus). Some, such as berberis, have fiery autumn foliage.

Read more about our recommended alternatives to box.

How to grow deutzia

2023-12-13T14:03:19Z

Deutzias are easy to grow, hardy deciduous shrubs that make beautiful displays of massed pink or white flowers in early to mid-summer. Numerous small five-petalled cup or saucer shaped flowers are borne profusely in clusters or racemes along twiggy arching branches, contrasting with mid-green toothed-edged leaves.

There are many different deutzia species and cultivated varieties and plant size varies considerably – the most compact types reach just 60cm high. A number of deutzia varieties grow to 1.2-1.8m high and wide, with the largest attaining a height and spread of 3m, so choosing the right one for a particular site is important.

Deutzias make excellent shrubs for garden borders but do have a relatively short period of interest, so underplant with perennials and bulbs in spring to extend the season of interest. Some older deutzias develop attractive peeling bark and birds often pick this off and use in nest building. Deutzias are easy to grow and tolerate a wide range of growing conditions.

How to grow deutzia

Plant deutzia, preferably when plants are dormant, into well-prepared soil. Mulch and feed annually. No regular is pruning required, but do thin out overgrown plants by selective renovation pruning. Propagate by cuttings in summer or winter.

Where to grow deutzia

Grow deutzia in full sun or partial shade in garden borders or a woodland garden. Large deutzia varieties make good single specimens to plant in grass. Deutzias thrive in a wide range of soils and tolerate poor conditions, although perform best in soil that is fertile and well-drained.

How to plant deutzia

Digging a hole to plant deutzia

Deutzia is hardy and ideally planted in autumn, during mild spells in winter, or early spring. Planting can be done when in full growth in spring/summer as long as plants are watered regularly for the rest of the growing season. Plant with the top of the root ball at the same depth as the soil level, firm in, and water well to settle the soil around the roots.

Caring for deutzia

Once established, deutzia needs little care. As with all border shrubs, a spring mulch of well-rotted organic matter will keep the soil – and hence the plant – in good condition, and an application of a general slow-release fertilizer at the same time will boost growth.

How to prune deutzia

Discover how to prune deutzia after flowering, to produce the best display of flowers next year, in this guide by Alan Titchmarsh. Alan explains why you should remove old wood and why you shouldn’t cut the whole shrub back at once.

On older plants, thin out if growth becomes congested, to rejuvenate and encourage new growth, by taking out about a quarter of the oldest stems near to the ground during winter. This lets light and air through the centre and encourages fresh new growth to develop.

How to propagate deutzia

Taking a semi-ripe deutzia cutting

Take softwood cuttings of young non-flowering shoots in summer, semi-ripe cuttings in autumn, or take hardwood cuttings of woody shoots in autumn.

Growing deutzia: problem solving

Deutzia is a trouble-free shrub to grow.

Advice on buying deutzia

Deutzias are often available at garden centres but for the best selection, buy online. Buy in autumn or winter when plants are dormant and easier to transport
Check the ultimate size of your chosen shrub, as the sizes can vary considerably

Where to buy deutzia online

Varieties of deutzia to grow

Deutzia x rosea

Deutzia x rosea – compact variety with pink-flushed flowers. Height x Spread: 1m x 1m
Deutzia ‘Raspberry Sundae’ – compact variety with pink and white flowers. H x S: 90cm x 90cm
Deutzia setchuenensis var. corymbiflora – white-flowered variety with attractive peeling bark. H xS: 2m x 1.5m
Deutzia x hybrida ‘Strawberry Fields’ – soft pink flowers with a delicate fragrance. H x S: 2m x 2m
Deutzia scabra – medium-sized, with fresh green, serrated foliage and white flowers. H x S: 3m x 3m

How to prune spring-flowering plants

2023-12-13T14:12:10Z

Spring-flowering shrubs, such as deutzia, physocarpus, philadelphus, forsythia and weigela produce their blooms on the woody stems made in the previous year. Cut out these stems as soon as the flowers have faded (or by July at the latest) and leave the current season’s new shoots to grow from the base. These are the stems that will carry the flowers next spring.

Dealing with bindweed

2023-12-13T14:04:19Z

Bindweed is a perennial weed that can become a persistent problem in gardens. There are two types: hedge bindweed and field bindweed. The most familiar and problematic bindweed is hedge bindweed, Calystegia sepium, which is fast-growing with slender, twining stems and large white trumpet flowers. It can grow to form a large mass of foliage, choking garden plants, reducing their growth or killing smaller plants entirely. Field bindweed, Convulvulus arvensis, bears smaller pink or white trumpet flowers and is smaller and less vigorous overall, although still perennial and problematic, especially on bare soil.

More advice on tackling weeds:

Why is bindweed a problem?

Bindweed is long-lived and hard to get rid of, especially when it’s growing amongst garden plants, because the fast-growing root system grows right through the roots of other plants. Hedge bindweed is a particular nuisance, being fast-growing with roots that can grow well over a metre a year and stems that can reach several metres high. The creamy-white roots are brittle and break easily, and even the smallest piece left in the ground will develop into a new plant. Field bindweed is less vigorous, but the same issues apply with the brittle roots and twining stems.

How to control bindweed without chemicals

Bindweed roots being dug out with a trowel

If you can wait 12-18 months before planting, the easiest way to kill all perennial weeds is to cover the soil with something that excludes all light. Plants need light in order to make food, so in the dark, even the toughest weeds will succumb in time. Use a material such as weed control fabric, black polythene or old carpet. It’s important to weigh down or bury the edges to keep out all light.

In beds and borders, digging out bindweed roots is the only way to tackle this problematic weed. Winter to early spring is a good time to get on top of it, before plants start growing.
Every piece of root left in the soil will grow into a new plant, so remove every last bit wherever possible. Use a fork to avoid breaking up the root.
Where bindweed has grown through the root systems of established plants, loosen the soil on each side of the roots to carefully pull out entire pieces.
Herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses that are full of bindweed can be lifted and divided whilst dormant and the bindweed removed.
In summer, if it’s not possible to dig up roots, hoe, cut or pull off shoots to weaken growth.
Other chemical-free weed control methods, such as homemade weed killers and weed burners, also kill top growth and weaken the weed but won’t kill the roots.

Disposing of bindweed roots

Bindweed roots on a garden fork

Never put bindweed roots in a compost bin as they will survive and can be spread around the garden when you use the compost. The roots can be safely composted in stout black plastic sacks (a good use for old compost bags) by folding over the top of the bag to keep out light and leaving for at least a year. Bindweed can be disposed of in your garden waste collection or taken to your council recycling centre.

How to control bindweed using chemical weedkillers

Spraying bindweed with a systemic weedkiller

As bindweed is a perennial weed, it can only be completely killed with the systemic weedkiller glyphosate. This needs to be applied to the leaves, which is then taken down into the roots as bindweed grows. Other types of weedkiller will kill only the top growth, and bindweed simply regrows from the roots.

Glyphosate comes in several formulations including gel, ready to use spray or concentrate, which you dilute and apply in your own sprayer. Make sure you always follow all safety instructions – glyphosate is thought to be linked to various human cancers and has been banned for municipal use by many UK councils. Apply glyphosate to the foliage only, from when bindweed starts flowering in summer through to early autumn. Take great care to avoid getting this weedkiller on garden plants as it kills everything it touches.

Where bindweed is growing among garden plants, put canes in the ground for the bindweed to twine up. Then, simply slip the growth off the cane, put into a clear plastic bag (still attached to the roots), apply glyphosate, and secure the bag with a clothes peg. Leave in place until the bindweed is completely dead.

How to grow jasmine

2023-12-13T13:53:12Z

Jasmines are evergreen or deciduous climbers with twining stems. They can be summer or winter flowering, with flowers that are white, yellow and occasionally red and pink.

All jasmines have small star-shaped flowers with a sweet and distinctive fragrance. Some are tender and only suitable for growing in a conservatory or greenhouse but the hardier varieties are perfect for greening up a wall or fence, provided they have wires to support them. Plant jasmine somewhere sunny, warm and sheltered, preferably near a seating area to enjoy the scent of the flowers.

How to grow jasmine

Grow jasmines in moist but well-drained soil in full sun, up a sturdy support such as a trellis or wires. Feed weekly with a high potash fertiliser in summer and mulch in autumn with well-rotted manure or leaf mould. Cut back after flowering.

Where to grow jasmine

How to grow jasmine – star jasmine growing up a brick wall

For best results, grow jasmine near a wall or fence in moist but well-drained soil in a sheltered, sunny, site. Many varieties will tolerate shade, but they do best in full sun.

You can also grow jasmines in large pots.

Here, Monty plants a jasmine to increase fragrance to a seating area at Longmeadow:

How to plant jasmine

Jasmine growing up a support post

Dig a planting hole and add well-rotted manure or compost to the bottom. On heavy soils, add grit to aid drainage. Provide support using an angled cane, which should be pointing in the direction of wires or a trellis for later growth.

Watch Monty’s video, below, to find out how to repot a jasmine:

Caring for jasmine

Summer- and winter-flowering jasmines should be pruned after flowering. Watch Alan Titchmarsh’s video where he shows how to prune and train jasmine after it has finished flowering. Both types of jasmine can be pruned back hard if they have outgrown their original planting spot. Look out for vigorous new growth to train into your desired shape and space. Plants will take a few years to start flowering again.

Feed weekly with a high-potash fertilise in summer, tying in young shoots to their support as and when you need to. In autumn it’s a good idea to mulch around the base of the plant with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould.

You will need:

High potash fertiliser – buy from Thompson & Morgan, Van Meuwen and Amazon
Trellis – buy from Thompson & Morgan and Amazon
Wire packs for climbing plants – buy from Amazon

How to propagate jasmine

Jasmines can be propagated by layering or from cuttings. Outdoor varieties are best propagated from hardwood cuttings taken in winter, but tender and glasshouse varieties do best from softwood or semi-ripe cuttings taken in spring or summer.

Growing jasmine: problem-solving

Jasmines are easy to grow with no serious pest and disease problems. Indoor grown plants may be prone to greenhouse pests like mealybug and red spider mite, and look out for aphids on outdoor plants.

Quick Tips video: Why won’t my jasmine flower?

Advice for buying jasmine

Make sure you choose the right jasmine for your growing space. Check its height, spread and hardiness before buying
Make sure your jasmine has healthy leaves and flower buds before buying/when it arrives

Where to buy jasmines online

Jasmine varieties to grow

Jasmine ‘Sunbeam’

Jasminum ‘Argenteovariegatum’ – with long, twining stems of variegated leaves in green, pink and cream, and white summer flowers. A fast grower, it’s ideal for covering a large south or west-facing wall
Buy Jasminum ‘Argenteovariegatum’ from Amazon
Jasminum ‘Sunbeam’ – a new variety with golden leaves, that are at their brightest in full sun. The fragrant white flowers appear from June to August. ‘Sunbeam’ grows quickly, and is ideal for covering a large south or west-facing wall
Buy Jasminum ‘Sunbeam’ from Amazon
Jasminum angulare – an evergreen climber with white flowers appearing between July and November. A South African native, it’s half-hardy, and needs overwintering indoors in frost-prone areas
Buy Jasminum angulare from Fibrex
Jasminum x stephanense – with pale pink flowers in June and July, this is a vigorous, deciduous climber. It will cope with partial shade as long as the soil is well-drained
Buy Jasminum x stephanense from Thompson & Morgan and Crocus
Jasminum beesianum – a vigorous, semi-evergreen climber, with red-pink flowers in summer. It’s frost hardy, but may suffer in harsh winters. Choose a sheltered to enjoy the fragrance. Remove old and overcrowded shoots after flowering
Buy Jasminum beesianum from Thompson & Morgan and Crocus
Trachelospermum jasminoides – the classic star jasmine is a woody, evergreen climber with rich, dark green leaves which turn bronze in winter. The scented white flowers appear from mid- to late summer
Buy Trachelospermum jasminoides from Thompson & Morgan and Crocus

How to cut back herbaceous perennials

2023-12-13T14:22:03Z

By autumn, many herbaceous perennials are running out of steam, with old foliage and flowers beginning to die back. It’s a good time to cut the old foliage back to the ground. The crown (base of the plant) will remain dormant over winter and will produce fresh shoots the following spring.

Dying stems can damage the crown and roots if battered about by autumn and winter gales, so they will benefit from being cut right back. In doing so, untidy clumps can be tidied up, too. Cutting back and clearing away foliage in autumn can also help to avoid fungal problems. Diseases can overwinter in dead and rotting foliage, which can also harbour slugs and other pests.

That’s not to say that all perennials should be cut back, though. Nowadays, many gardeners prefer to leave some perennials, especially those with attractive seedheads, intact – they give added interest in winter and provide vital food and shelter for wildlife. They can be cut back in spring, once they start to look messy, and when new growth is appearing at the base.

Discover our top tips on how to cut back herbaceous perennials, below.

Nowadays, many gardeners prefer to leave some perennials, especially those with attractive seedheads, intact.

Cut down old flower stems

Removing spent flower stems is the simplest type of pruning. As these are usually hollow, cut as low as possible and at an angle, so water doesn’t collect inside and freeze, damaging the crown. If new growth has already formed at the base of the clump, cut to just above it.

Cutting dead flower stems near their base with secateurs

Prune clump-forming perennials

Reduce clumps of perennials such as hardy geraniums, astrantias and alchemilla to ground level during autumn. Use secateurs to cut away all the dead foliage and tidy up the plant ready for winter. All perennials and grasses that die back can be tidied up in this way during autumn.

Cutting back alchemilla to ground level before winter

Leave attractive seedheads

Don’t cut back perennials with attractive seedheads or stems, such as ornamental grasses, thistles and umbellifers – they’ll add structure and interest over winter and will also provide vital food and shelter for wildlife. Discover plants with attractive seedheads.

Decorative echinacea seedheads

Perennials to leave

Some perennials, such as pulmonaria, retire back to a dense clump of basal foliage that should be left in place. Leave evergreen perennials, such as epimediums, euphorbias and hellebores. Don’t cut back penstemons until spring – the old stems will protect the crown from frost over winter.

Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’

Feeding your plants

After cutting back your plants in autumn, apply a light mulch around them. Then feed in spring for strong, healthy growth.

Herbaceous plants to cut down to the ground in autumn

Gardens to visit in Ibiza

2023-12-13T14:13:45Z

The summer before lockdown, I visited Ibiza and stayed at the Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel. My pre-conceived ideas about the island, known famously for its night clubs, were blown away by how beautiful, authentic and calming Ibiza actually is. A hidden gem of beautiful beaches and rolling hills, most of the island is an escape from modern distractions and wonderfully quiet.

The idyllic gardens. Photo: Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel

Driving from the hotel out toward the coast I was able to visit and enjoy a range of natural beauty spots including secluded beaches, coves and shoreline. The region I was in, Santa Eulària des Riu, boasts 46 kilometres of swimmable coastline with clear water and stunning scenery. I enjoyed spending an afternoon driving through the countryside and along this coastline exploring some of the many attractions, stopping to take in the natural beauty.

The grounds. Photo: Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel

On my exploration of the coast, my first stop was Es Figueral, a village with secluded beach made of golden sand just a 16-minute drive away from the hotel. Like many of the spots in the north of Ibiza, it has a bohemian vibe and is family friendly. The beach is backed by rocky cliffs, with views out to the island of Tagomago.

The rugged coastline of Ibiza – easy to escape the crowds. Photo: Miranda Luke

The next stop was Cala d’en Serra further up the coast, offering a peaceful spot for those enjoy snorkelling, with fish visible in the calm waters and panoramic views of the surrounding coasts. The beach and surrounding area is great for long walks and exploration.

Ibizan architecture. Photo: Miranda Luke

Finally, I stopped off at Cala Benirrás before returning to relax by the pool at the hotel. It’s a sheltered bay enjoyed for its hippy market and bars, but also offers picturesque views getting there. You join the beach via the winding valleys and enjoy the backdrop of pine-forested cliffs. I was excited to head back for dinner, but those staying until dusk enjoy its famous sunsets and perhaps some local drumming, for which it is known.

Private space to sunbathe in the grounds. Photo: Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel

I also spent time just enjoying the hotel itself, with its naturally beautiful landscape and ‘farm to fork’ dining – the restaurant grows its own produce on site. The kitchen garden is open to guests, and it’s delightful to wander through and spot watermelons growing on the ground, as one might expect to see pumpkins growing at home. There are luxury spa facilities and bars too. I was ready to melt away after a day spent just sunning, swimming and relaxing.

As there’s on average 300 days of sunshine in Ibiza, spring through to summer is a great time to visit, but I really enjoyed the comfortably warm climate and calmness in early autumn.

Factfile

Getting there: Miranda flew to Ibiza with British Airways
Where to stay: Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel in Santa Eulària des Riu
When to visit: Ibiza is typically hottest in July and August with pleasant mid-season periods of April-May and mid-Sept-Oct